Archive for September, 2010

Top 10 Most Expensive Cars in The World

10. SSC ultimate aero ($740,000)

The SSC Ultimate Aero is an American-built mid-engine super car by Shelby Super Cars. It was built using the Lamborghini Diablo Replicar chassis with twin turbocharged engine sourced from the Corvette C5R mated to a G-64 6-speed manual transmission. It weighs 1,270 kilograms.

SSC Ultimate Aero

9. Leblanc Mirabeau ($765,000)

Leblanc Mirabeau is the closest you’ll ever get to a race car for the street. It weighs just 812 kg. The bit that makes the Mirabeau so special is that the engine of the Mirabeau is from the Koenigsegg CCR, until the series production of the Bugatti Veyron, the fastest production road car in the world.

Leblanc Mirabeau

8. Koenigsegg CCX ($1.1 Millions)

The CCX can accelerate from 0–62 mph (100 km/h) in 3.2 seconds and from 0–124 mph (200 km/h) in 9.8 seconds. The CCX has a six speed manual gearbox made for Koenigsegg by Cimawith a twin plate clutch of diameter 8.5 inches (220 mm) as standard but a sequential manual transmission option is available.

Koenigsegg CCX

7. Koenigsegg CCXR ($1.3 Millions)

The CCXR is powered by a modified twin-supercharged V8 engine from its predecessor the CCX, converted to use E85 or E100 ethanol fuel as well as standard 98 octane petrol. Besides the use of ethanol fuel, the only changes to the engine are modified fuel injectors, upgraded fuel lines and piston rings and a higher boost setting on the superchargers.

Koenigsegg CCXR

6. Maybach Landaulet ($1.4 Millions)

The Maybach Landaulet is powered by an updated V12 engine with twin turbochargers and water intercooling developing 450 kW/612 hp from 4800 to 5100 rpm and an impressive 1000 Nm of torque between 2000 and 4000 rpm.

Maybach Landaulet

5. Lamborghini Reventon ($1.42 Millions)

The Lamborghini Reventon comes with a 6.5 Liter V12 engine under its hood that makes an astounding 670 HP and 486 lb-ft of torque coupled to the automaker’s six speed e-gear transmission. This combination of high performance pistons and electronically controlled cogs will allow the upcoming Reventon Roadster super car to go from 0 to 60 MPH in just 3.4 seconds while reaching a top speed of around 205 MPH.

Lamborghini Reventon

4. Lamborghini Reventon Roadster ($1.56 Millions)

The Lamborghini Reventon comes with a 6.5 Liter V12 engine under its hood that makes an astounding 670 HP and 486 lb-ft of torque coupled to the automaker’s six speed e-gear transmission. This combination of high performance pistons and electronically controlled cogs will allow the upcoming Reventon Roadster super car to go from 0 to 60 MPH in just 3.4 seconds while reaching a top speed of around 205 MPH.

Lamborghini Reventon Roadster

3. Pagani Zonda Cinque Roadster ($1.8 Millions)

The Pagani Cinque Roadster is a hand built twin turbocharged AMG V12 engine that makes 678 HP. That tremendous amount of power lets the rocket ship inspired vehicle to sprint to 60 MPH from a standstill in just 3.4 seconds and hit 200 km/h in under ten seconds and it won’t stop until it reaches a top speed of 217 MPH.

Pagani Zonda Cinque Roadster

2. Bugatti Veyron 16.4 Grand Sport ($2 Millions) / coupe version ($1.67 Millions)

The engine has 16 cylinders, eight camshafts, four turbochargers, 64 valves and produces 1001 horsepower. It will power the world’s fastest production car to a top speed of 406kmh.

Bugatti Veyron 16.4 Grand Sport

1. Koenigsegg Trevita ($2.21 Millions)

The Trevita was limited to only three cars hence the name Trevita, which means Three white in Swedish. The Trevita features a koenigsegg proprietary glittering silvery white carbon composite fabric. Apart from the unique composte material and the partially painted wheels it has the specification as the Special Edition CCXR.

Koenigsegg Trevita

Data courtesy of World Interesting Facts


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Better Be Ready Before The Car Halts

The engine is considered as one of the main parts of the car. And so, having a clean engine is a very important phase in maintaining a car. It is your primary duty as an owner to maintain and to find signs when a car needs a tune up or if it has an almost failing engine.

In this article, you will learn the different easy steps when cleaning the engine of your bmw, suv, etc. and also the different things you can do when you think that the engine is not working properly.

How Do You Clean Your Engine?

  1. Warm the engine up and shut it off – To soften the grease and dirt collected on your engine compartment, start the engine to warm it up for a few seconds and then just shut it off.
  2. Cover the air intake/air filter and the distributor/coil – Place a double layer of Baggies over the air intake and secure with a couple of rubber bands. Use a pair of two-gallon size Baggies to cover the distributor and plug wires around the distributor cap. This may be difficult to seal, but the idea is to prevent significant amounts of water possibly shorting out the distributor. If the cap is in good condition, it will be waterproof, so this is only a preventative measure. The coil is also waterproof, so Baggies are again a preventative measure. Check the tightness of the oil filler cap, the power steering filler cap, windshield washer fluid cap, oil dip stick, battery filler caps and all other engine compartment opening caps and secure baggies over them with rubber bands.
  3. Spray the entire engine/engine compartment with a quality, non-petroleum based degreaser – Try to start from the bottom and work up. This way you don’t have the degreaser dropping on your face as you clean the underside areas.

One very important point to remember is that all degreasers can remove your nice coat of wax. You need to rewax if you get the engine cleaner on the waxed areas of the engine. Let the degreasers stay for about 3-5 minutes to work and then use a 100% cotton towel or a soft brush to gently swirl up the heavily soiled areas. Spray and brush any areas again that need additional cleaning. Once the entire engine compartment has been cleaned, rinse it thoroughly with water.

What Should Be Done After Detecting Damage In The Engine?

  • Check The signs of the damage
    • Isn’t the car starting?
    • Is the car running roughly?
    • Is it conking out?
    • Is the car consuming too much petrol?
  • Isolate the system which may have caused the damage. Say for instance, if the car isn’t starting, you might have to check the electrical part of the engine. Or if the car is overheating then you might have to look first the cooling system.
  • Locate the weakest link of the system that’s causing the problem. The fuel pump, for example, is often the most vulnerable part of the fuel system.
  • Check each successive or adjacent part in the system until the problem is solved.
  • Get the broken part replaced or repaired.

When doing a diagnosis on your car, consult your car’s manual to speed up the process.

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Because You Have to STOP! The Basics of Good Brakes

It would be hard to argue that the brakes are the most important system in a car, if you have a car that can’t efficiently slow down or stop it should not be on the road or track.

Although today’s cars have very advanced and impressive brake systems, there are a ton of cars out there that are lacking. Older cars that never were properly equipped from the manufacturer, while others that have brakes that are mangled and neglected over the years—sometimes by a misguided owner trying to make things better, or other times by someone who was just too cheap to do things right.

Whatever the cause for the diminished performance, we have 10 tips that will rejuvenate and maximize almost any braking system. In most cases, this work can be done in a day with basic hand tools.

1. Pick the Right Compound

It’s very important to have the right pads and shoes fitted to your car. They have to be matched to the way you drive and how much heat your brakes generate. If you fit racing brakes to a street car, you can expect worse-than-stock performance from them—they’ll never get hot enough to generate the necessary friction for optimum stopping power. Likewise, street pads on a race car will overheat quickly (even catch fire) and won’t do the job, either. And bargain pads are anything but a bargain—they often work poorly no matter how they’re used.

2. Look for Leaks

If anything is leaking in your braking system, fix it immediately. Make a visual inspection of all brake components and look for wet areas—you should find none. If you can’t find leaks but you are losing fluid, you haven’t looked hard enough. The fluid is leaking somewhere—it doesn’t evaporate.

3. Bleed Them Correctly

There are a lot of ways to bleed brakes, and some are better than others. We’ve always preferred the two-person way: One person goes to each wheel and bleeds the brake according to the shop manual instructions, while another person works the pedal. Some people prefer power bleeders. Either way, if your brakes aren’t bled properly, you’ll always have a soft, spongy pedal with too much travel.

4. Make Sure They’re Assembled Correctly

If a car has had at least one previous owner, assume that someone with a lack of mechanical ability has touched the brakes. It’s very common to find incorrectly installed or assembled brake parts. With drum brakes, it’s common to see linkages or shoes installed backward. With disc brakes, calipers sometimes get switched side to side. Check a manual or a trusted Web site to make sure your brakes are correctly put together.

5. Adjust the Drums

Many older cars have at least two drum brakes, and many are not self-adjusting. After making sure the adjusters are not frozen, adjust the brakes so they just start to drag. If you get them too tight, you’ll know in the first few hundred feet of your first drive. If they’re too loose, you’ll find that your pedal goes too far to the floor. Properly adjusted drum brakes account for about 75 percent of the pedal’s feel, so spend some time on this.

6. Adjust the Parking Brake

Your parking brake works, doesn’t it? It’s also called the emergency brake for a good reason, especially on single-circuit brake systems, so make sure it not only works, but it is adjusted properly and releases properly. Stuck parking brakes can quickly make brakes feel and act funny, and they wear things out more quickly.

7. Check the Hoses

A visual inspections of flexible brake hoses is pretty easy—look for leaks and cracks, discarding any hose with either. Sometimes hoses will swell as they age. To check for this, feel the hose as an assistant steps hard on the pedal. If you can feel much swelling at all, get a new hose. Another good test is to clamp each hose shut while an assistant steps on the pedal. If the pedal is much harder with the hose clamped, it is probably time for a new hose. By the way, always replace hoses in pairs if they are installed in pairs. For example, don’t replace just one front hose—the car will likely pull to one side because of differing amounts of compliance in each front line.

8. Rotor and Drum Surfaces Do Matter

The surface finish on your rotors and drums is another important aspect to stopping power. Obviously, grooves are bad, but so is glazing. New parts or a trip to a shop that can put a good surface finish on your parts will help get you the stopping power you need.

9. Check the Linkages

A lot of the brake pedal travel and feel is dictated by compliance in the system. After you’ve checked that all the components are not leaking and are in good shape, look for wear (and therefore compliance) in the pedal/master cylinder linkage and in the rear brake/parking brake linkages.

A small bit of wear in any of these can translate into an inch or more of pedal travel, plus a sloppy feeling. When you repair or reassemble these linkages, make sure to grease them appropriately for smooth operation.

10. Do You Really Need Those Big Brakes?

While most people seem to think a big brake kit is a great idea, it’s sometimes not necessary, especially if your car runs on the street. Many people jump to a big-brake kit before they even maximize their stock setup. If you can lock up your wheels and tires, you don’t need bigger brakes—you need stickier tires. Once you’ve got the stickiest tire you can fit, then you can start thinking about bigger brakes.

Next, consider whether you can lock your brakes up when they’re cold, and how many stops it takes to induce fade. If you can induce fade, then you may want to experiment with different pads (or shoes) before jumping on the big-brake bandwagon. Remember, big brakes usually weigh more than the pieces they are replacing, and weight, especially rotating unsprung weight, is something we usually want to avoid.

Now We’re Stopping

Before you accuse your car of having badly designed brakes, make sure you’ve looked at the preceding areas. Your car should stop straight and within a reasonable distance. The pedal should move no more than a couple of inches. Don’t accept the “it’s an older car, what do you expect?” excuse for bad brakes—make sure they’re in good shape before considering upgrades.

Article courtesy of Grassroots Magazine

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